Bullet Points
-After
catching a ferry from Patras in Greece, we’ve spent ten days in Italy cycling
from Bari on the East coast to Rome on the West.
-We're actually now in...North Africa! A blog of our Spanish experiences will be coming soon but for now Morocco is just outside our door and begging exploration!
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I
have to admit that I expected the open and often spontaneous welcomes we’ve so
often received along our journey to come to an end upon arriving in Europe. Our
experience in Italy was a far from it.
There
was the farming family, who took us in on our first night. To them we must have
been a bizarre sight arriving out of the darkness, dressed in our high-viz
vests and flashing lights, but despite this their welcome was warm.
In
the hill top village of Accadia we arrived on a cold dusk, the rain setting in.
Out of the local store emerged Antonia. Perhaps we looked a bit bedraggled I don’t
know, but whatever our appearance Antonio perceived we needed a bed, some warm
shelter and a meal, and all of these things he proceeded to gift us
enthusiastically.
Antonio: The king of the Kitchen and all round top guy. |
Half
way along the journey, in the city of Benevento, we spent two days and three nights
with Massimo Mazzone and his wonderful extended family, dossing down on their
office floor. Massimo is a transport planner and involved in the development of
the EuroVelo cycling routes. His wealth of knowledge assured that our route
through Italy was anything but straight and flat, yet so extremely interesting
and rewarding.
Massimo and family |
With
the shortening daylight hours we found ourselves often being caught out by the
early Italian darkness. One night, again dressed up in high-viz gear and with
flashing lights, I knocked upon the door of Eugene and Sabina to ask if we
could camp on their lawn. As it panned out I had chosen the most wonderful home
on which to door knock. Camping on the lawn evolved to sleeping inside, which
then lead to coffee, then beers, and before long we sharing a wonderful meal
together with their friends in a lounge overflowing with laughter and singing
and even toasts to us!
Eugene and Sabina: An incredible welcome in Castelliri after being caught in the dark...again! |
Along
the way this little part of Italy has been a unique cycling experience. Unlike
many parts of our journey the land has been inhabited almost constantly, the
rolling green hills dotted with houses and mini farms, often clustered into
classicly cute villages. To weave and wind our way through this style of
civilization was a playful cycling experience. Every hill top would have a village,
often hemmed in by ancient city walls. Again and again we would wind our way up
through the lanes and then whizz down the other side. I will remember fondly
any time we stopped to ask for instructions and true to their reputation yet
another friendly Italian would exuberantly and dramatically wave their arms
wildly and give us a long list of instructions, all in Italian of course. Our
lack of understanding and dumbfounded looks did nothing to stop their eloquent
and detailed descriptions. Repeatedly we would emerge none the wiser but very
entertained!
Belmonte Castello. Winding our way up to another grand village on a hill top. |
Classic Italian beauty. |
Weaving through the lanes of Veroli. |
Anna looking out over the sprawling civilisation. |
On a
more serious note, our route to Rome also lead us to the town of Cassino, site
of the famous World War Two ‘Battle of Monte Cassino’ in 1944. My Grandpa
Yeoman, now aged 91, was a conscientious objector at the time of the war, he
was willing however to serve as a medic and served for some time at Cassino. We
found our way to the cemetery for Commonwealth soldiers, and wandered amongst
the graves, of which many were young New Zealanders. The experience was moving.
I was left reflecting on how many people all over the world never got to
farewell their lost loved ones. I was also filled with a huge respect for my
Grandpa, and for all those who witnessed such atrocities and yet have managed
to retain their sanity and return home to build good lives.
Cassino Commonwealth War Cemetery. |
Arriving
in Rome was awesome!! To ride through the arches of the old city walls and down
the ‘Via Labicana’ to the Colosseum was absolutely brilliant. Everything was so big and so grand and for us
such a culmination of a great Italian experience.
Needs no introduction. AWESOME!!! |
Riding Rome. |
Rome does things BIG. Ollie at the Pantheon. |
Over looking Rome from Piazza del Popolo. The Vatican most prominent on the skyline. |
Fontana de Trevi. |
Ollie